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⚡ QUICK TRIPESS DIRECTIVE (September 2026): Visiting Tempelhof is completely free for the open airfield, but if you want to explore the massive monumental airport terminal, secret Cold War bunkers, and the THF Tower rooftop view, you MUST book an official guided airport tour 3–5 days in advance. September brings pleasant 18°C–22°C temperatures and the famous annual Giant Kite Festival (Riesendrachenfestival), making early autumn the absolute best time of the year to visit.
Where else in the world can you ride a bicycle, fly a kite, or sip a cold craft beer on an active 2-mile commercial runway surrounded by history? Tempelhofer Feld in Berlin is Europe’s largest inner-city open space—sprawling over 386 hectares (larger than New York's Central Park!). Once the staging ground for the legendary 1948–1949 Berlin Airlift and Nazi-era aviation architecture, it has transformed into Berlin's ultimate sanctuary of urban freedom.
Whether you're looking for sweeping skyline views, historical tours through Cold War bunkers, outdoor sports, or sunset picnics, here is your definitive, expert-tested guide on how to spend time in Tempelhof, Berlin.
Is Tempelhof really worth your time? Picture this: you're cycling at full speed down a massive 60-meter-wide asphalt runway where giant Boeing and Douglas aircraft once landed. Strong autumn breezes sweep across the flat horizon, lifting 50-meter-wide creature kites into the sky above. As the sun sets over West Berlin, golden light reflects off the massive curved limestone airport terminal while hundreds of locals lounge on the grass with music and drinks. It offers a sense of vast openness and historic gravity that exists nowhere else in Europe.
"Riding an e-bike down the runway at sunset felt completely surreal. Learning about the Airlift history right where the 'Raisin Bombers' dropped food packages made it the single most memorable afternoon of our Germany trip." — David & Maya K., Canada
For one of Berlin's freshest rooftop perspectives, climb the former air traffic control tower at Tempelhofer Damm. The architectural journey inside is remarkable: an impressive suspended steel staircase hangs in the stairwell, supported by 14 heavy tie rods attached directly to the roof structure. Exposed brickwork highlights the building's historic construction.
At the top, the open-air roof terrace yields an uninterrupted 360° panorama across the entire 386-hectare airfield and Berlin's urban horizon. On the 6th floor, the Alte Feuerwache hosts revolving cultural exhibitions, live concerts, and creative workshops throughout the late summer and autumn season.
Opening Hours: Wednesday to Sunday, 11:00 AM – 6:00 PM | Location: Tempelhofer Damm 45
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Covering an area equal to roughly 541 football fields, walking the entire perimeter takes about 90 minutes. To experience the field like a true Berliner, grab a set of wheels. The smooth, wide runways are world-famous for rollerblading, longboarding, land-sailing, and cycling.
While Tempelhof is famous for casual DIY picnics, there are fantastic food and drink options right inside the field boundaries:
Forget standard mini-golf. Nuture Mini Art Golf (near the Columbiadamm 80 entrance) is an evolving outdoor art project where local artists construct interactive golf holes entirely out of recycled materials. Each hole carries a social or ecological theme—inviting players to generate clean electricity on the "Nightclubbing" hole or reflect on climate awareness, wildlife preservation, and urban sustainability while putting.
Tempelhofer Feld’s backstory spans centuries: from medieval Knights Templar grounds to military parade fields under Frederick William I, and early aviation feats by Orville Wright in 1909. The monumental terminal building constructed in 1936 remains one of the world's largest structures.
During the Soviet Blockade of 1948–1949, American and British pilots launched the Berlin Airlift, landing cargo planes every 90 seconds to supply 2.1 million West Berliners with food and coal. These aircraft became lovingly known as Rosinenbomber ("Raisin Bombers") because pilots dropped candy tied to mini-parachutes for local children. Today, you can inspect a historic Nord 262 passenger aircraft right on the central airfield and visit the Airlift Memorial (Luftbrückendenkmal) at Platz der Luftbrücke.
Official Airport & Bunker Guided Tour (2 Hours):
🚩 Best for: History enthusiasts, architecture buffs, and curious travelers.
🔑 Highlights: Grants exclusive access inside the world's largest monument—exploring hidden Cold War
air-raid shelters, underground WWII bomb bunkers, mythic tunnels, US Air Force basketball courts,
and massive flight hangars.
💸 Cost: ~€17. Small group capacity guarantees deep historical narrative.
DIY Airfield Stroll (Free):
🚩 Best for: Casual sunbathing, outdoor workouts, and casual sunset drinks.
🔑 Highlights: Access to the runways, dog parks, and beer gardens (no terminal access).
The Verdict: Do BOTH! Book a morning Guided Building Tour to uncover the secret subterranean history, then spend your afternoon relaxing outdoors on the open runways with a cold drink.
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Tempelhof is Berlin's ultimate sports arena. Here you'll find dedicated basketball courts, soccer pitches, beach volleyball courts, boules lanes, a high-ropes course, and the Cabuwazi youth circus. Every year in mid-to-late September, the field hosts the breathtaking Festival of Giant Kites (Riesendrachenfestival), where giant 50-meter airborne whales, dragons, and comic figures fill the sky above 1000 spectators.
Near the southwestern "Crashgate" entrance on Oderstraße, a red information container transforms into an open-air chess clubhouse every Sunday afternoon (from 2:00 PM until sunset, weather permitting). Travelers and locals gather to play casual matches using upcycled giant chess sets on large outdoor boards.
Step behind the limestone facade into what architect Norman Foster called "the mother of all modern airports." Guided subterranean tours take visitors deep beneath the surface into heavy WWII air-raid shelters, secret railway tunnels used for forced labor production during WWII, and abandoned US military bowling alleys from the Cold War garrison era.
Near the Columbiadamm entrance, the Stadtacker community garden thrives with raised herb beds, sunflowers, and DIY wooden sculptures. Nearby, the open-air Tanzboden (dance floor) hosts informal swing, salsa, and tango gatherings on warm evenings, while the bright red KulturGate shipping container hosts pop-up acoustic concerts and art exchanges.
Because Tempelhof is vast and entirely unblocked by high-rise towers, it delivers the most dramatic wide-angle sunsets in Berlin. Grab a picnic blanket, sun block, and a chilled drink, and settle onto the raised wooden viewing platforms near Die Treppe. Watching the sky fade from vibrant gold to violet over the historic runways is a quintessential Berlin ritual.
Located directly outside Platz der Luftbrücke station, this striking curved concrete monument—nicknamed the "Hunger Claw" (Hungerharke) by locals—honors the 39 British and 31 American aviators who gave their lives flying food and fuel supplies into blockaded Berlin.
If you're traveling with pets or simply love watching dogs play, Tempelhof features three massive, fully fenced off-leash dog exercise areas (Hundeauslaufzonen) spanning thousands of square meters near the main perimeter gates.
Yes, general entry to the 386-hectare outdoor airfield of Tempelhofer Feld is completely free of charge. You can walk, ride bicycles, rollerblade, and picnic on the former runways without buying a ticket. However, official guided tours inside the historic airport building and rooftop THF Tower require paid tickets.
Tempelhof is easily accessible via Berlin's U-Bahn and S-Bahn transit networks. Take the U6 line to Platz der Luftbrücke or Paradestraße, or take the Ringbahn (S41/S42) or U6 directly to S+U Tempelhof for the main western entrance. From Neukölln, take the U8 to Leinestraße or Boddinstraße.
Yes, rental shops operate directly near the S+U Tempelhof main entrance. Mobilcenter Berlin rents traditional city bicycles, multi-person family pedal karts, and wheelchairs, while Steckdose Berlin rents Segways. App-based city bikes (like Nextbike) and e-scooters can also be parked near designated entrance hubs.
Tempelhofer Feld opens daily at sunrise and closes at dusk. Opening times adjust monthly depending on daylight: opening between 6:00 AM and 7:00 AM, and closing between 6:00 PM in winter and 10:30 PM at the peak of summer. All perimeter gates lock automatically at closing time.
Yes, official guided tours explore the terminal interior, subterranean Cold War air-raid shelters, WWII bomb bunkers, historic flight hangars, and former US Air Force military quarters. Tours run daily in English and German. Pre-booking online is strongly recommended as group sizes are capped.
The Giant Kite Festival (Riesendrachenfestival) is an annual autumn event held every September at Tempelhofer Feld. International kite pilots fly massive 50-meter-wide creature and character kites above the airfield. Admission is completely free and features family food stalls and live music.
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